Varanasi, holy? Hmmm. Heap of hassle, more like. First, we asked to be dropped at a different hotel, and were taken to completely the wrong part of town by the usual thoroughly corrupt taxi drivers hoping to persuade us to stay at the Hotel Sonmony (hotel located above one of the cremation ghats). This may be fine for you if you like the smell and sight of burning bodies outside your window, but we don't.
So we walked approx 1.5km upriver, through cow shit, human shit and piles of rubbish,the smell of piss wafting around us all the while, checking out a few other hotels. Most were horrific. Hotel Alka is a haven in comparison, and as one of the only decent ghat-side hotels, it gets busy; we heard several people turned away, including those trying to reserve ahead by phone. The room was small and basic, but reasonably clean, with a TV and ok bathroom with hot water (first hotel to claim hot water and actually provide it!) However, we would not stay here again if we had a choice. Staff were extremely rude and unhelpful. No one is allowed to check in until 12 midday at the earliest; despite people checking out earlier, they don't clean the rooms until late. They've also amassed a small collection of books, which you would expect to be available through a book swap scheme like most other traveller-friendly hotels. However, Hotel Alka do not swap; they sell the books people leave behind and will not even give you one book for two. We interpreted this as no need to leave a tip – we just left a book. If you do decide to stay here, do not make the mistake of eating here: the food is terrible and cups and plates are not clean. The pancakes in particular are stomach-churningly awful with the texture and taste of solidified glue. Instead, head to Godaulia Crossing and turn right to find the Palawi Restaurant with well-priced yummy food in a chilled-out setting by an old temple.
Bathroom: private
View: No view as window was frosted.
Cost: 700 rupees (approx 11 euros)
Recommended? Not really, but beggars can't be choosers, and it's the best of a very bad bunch in Varanasi at this time.
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