Yazd, July 20-21

Malek- o-Tojar
Was the Lonely Planet recommended choice in our (2004) edition but will have undoubtedly lost that mantle by now we're sure. It's still a gorgeous old house but the owners have turned their attention to a couple of larger, more elegant establishments, with the result that this now looks quite neglected and run-down. Nevertheless it is still an atmospheric place to stay – if you don't mind keeping your valuables and money on you at all times – we had some money stolen from our room at the same time the room was cleaned, and management acted as if they did not understand us when we complained. Rather than press home the point by calling the police, we had a bus to catch, so left it at that. However, be warned. If you stay here, bargain hard to reduce the price and do not leave anything in your room you mind losing.
Bathroom: private
View: Courtyard
Cost: 280000R including basic breakfast
Recommended: No, sadly, due to our experience of theft at this hotel. Spend your money on the Silk Road or Orient Hotel instead (both of which we viewed but did not stay at).

Kashan, July 13-14

Ehsan Traditional House, room 5

Ehsan Traditional House, room 5

One of the old houses of Esfahan, up an alleyway opposite the road leading to the mosque south of Kamal al Molk square. Our room was generously sized, clean, and had a fridge. It opened onto the courtyard, although was west-facing to the afternoon sun. Like most of Iran, Kashan suffers regular power cuts – be warned this can be a big problem in the city in summer as air-conditioning is vital. In this hotel our room got very hot at the end of the day. This place was only opened within the last 2 years so was not listed in our Lonely Planet book, but should be in the new one published July 2008, so is likely to become more popular. Booking ahead would be wise. Staff are very helpful and friendly. A taxi to the bus station from here cost 15,000R booked ahead by phone.
Bathroom: Shared, very clean.
View: Courtyard Cost: 250,000R (approx 18 euros)
Recommended: Definitely
Address: off Fazel-e Navaji St, Town Centre

Tehran July 9-12

Firouzeh Hotel, room 208

Mr Mousavi, the manager, is the main reason to head for this downtown hotel, handy for the bazaar and downtown attractions. He's ridiculously helpful and works exceptionally hard to help tourists enjoy their stay. (He can also suggest and order delicious delivery food.)
Bathroom: private shower, but shared squat toilets in the corridor. These were generally clean and not too smelly.
View: Streetscape
Cost: 240,000R (approx 18 euros), including breakfast
Recommended? Absolutely
Contact details: http://www.firouzehotel.com/ Address: Dolat Abadi Alley, Amir Kabir St. Ph +98 21 3322 3508 email: info@firouzehhotel.com

Tabriz - Tehran overnight train, July 8

Carriage 6, berths 17 and 18
This was a comfortable and good value overnight trip, with the price of the train including dinner, along with cake and juice for breakfast. Pic shown is of the Tabriz station.
Bathroom: the usual grin and bear it overnight train deal – reasonably horrific by the morning
View: Varied
Cost: 300,000R for two
Recommended? Yes. More expensive, but vastly superior to an overnight bus for comfort.

Tabriz, July 6-7

Azerbayjan Hotel, room 302

In the mid-range hotel category, this hotel is clean, spacious and well-located not far from the bazaar and main sights. Our room was wallpapered in a recycled-type paper wall to ceiling. Towels and sheets are provided still individually sealed in their plastic from the cleaners. Rooms are double-glazed to keep out the street noise. Our room had a big fridge in the room so you can store fruit and stuff to make your own breakfast.
Bathroom: private, with 2 toilets, 2 Western, 1 squat
View: main street
Cost: 300,000R (approx 21 euros)
Recommended? Yes, more expensive than we would have liked but well-located and felt very safe.
Contact details: Located on Sharia'ti St