RN Haveli, roof room
Run by Mama and a couple of helpers, this haveli is just like staying in a family home. Actually, it is a family home. And a very basic one. Mama has a huge personality and will tell you to treat her like your Indian mother, and her house as your home. It's all rather sweet, and she is a lovely lady, but she doesn't get upstairs much, we think, and our room was a bit of a hovel. The bathroom was badly connected and emitted the smell of raw sewerage whenever the toilet was flushed (hmmm, to not flush the toilet and watch it all pile up, or flush it and dry retch...it's a tough one). The bed was hard, the windows had no glass, so it was a mozzie free-for-all, and the roof is made of corrugated iron which the local monkeys like jumping on from about 6am. Oh, and there was a bat flying round the room the second night when we went to bed. This is REAL.
Bathroom: private, but horrific
View: Bundi fort
Cost: A tiny 250 rupees
Recommended: We won't be doing this again. But go for the cleaner downstairs room if you want a basic and honest homestay experience.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Udaipur, August 17-20
Jaiwana Haveli (aka Caravan Serai), room 30
A step up into the mid-range category and boy did we notice the difference. Rooms here are spotless with crisp white sheets, comfy beds and soft pillows. The bathroom was new, although amusingly, the toilet has been installed somewhat high, so when seated, you feel like you are a child again, with your legs dangling above the ground. Our room had a view of the Lake Palace out of one tinted window (we opened the window for a better gawk and the breeze, but look out for the mozzies). Apparently management (who, by the way, managed to strike the perfect balance between professional and friendly), were shortly to install LCD TVs in some of the rooms, which will make the Jaiwana even more of a bargain for the price.
Some rooms have views
Bathroom: private, spotless, lovely
Cost: 800 rupees. A steal
Recommended: Oh yes. Nowhere else we stayed came close to this for value and style.
Contact details: www.jaiwanahaveli.com
A step up into the mid-range category and boy did we notice the difference. Rooms here are spotless with crisp white sheets, comfy beds and soft pillows. The bathroom was new, although amusingly, the toilet has been installed somewhat high, so when seated, you feel like you are a child again, with your legs dangling above the ground. Our room had a view of the Lake Palace out of one tinted window (we opened the window for a better gawk and the breeze, but look out for the mozzies). Apparently management (who, by the way, managed to strike the perfect balance between professional and friendly), were shortly to install LCD TVs in some of the rooms, which will make the Jaiwana even more of a bargain for the price.
Some rooms have views
Bathroom: private, spotless, lovely
Cost: 800 rupees. A steal
Recommended: Oh yes. Nowhere else we stayed came close to this for value and style.
Contact details: www.jaiwanahaveli.com
Udaipur, 16 August
Lake Ghat Guest House (aka Lake Ghat Palace) room 8
A range of rooms are available at this haveli-style guesthouse. Its name change from 'guest house' to palace is stretching it a bit, though. We went for the cheapest room in the house, at 400 rupees, which was clean and well kept, with small windows giving a view of the lake. The bed was hard and lumpy, as were the pillows. The bathroom, too, was rudimentary with a cold shower, although it too was clean. If you want better rooms, they are available here, but bargain hard as we think the price asked for most does not reflect the quality. Management are a friendly family, and there's a good restaurant on the rooftop doing excellent dinners, although average breakfasts.
View: glimpse of lake palace
Cost: 450 rupees
Recommended? Yes, but try bargaining the price down for the more expensive rooms
Contact details: +91 294 2521636 Email: lakeghatanis@hotmail.com
A range of rooms are available at this haveli-style guesthouse. Its name change from 'guest house' to palace is stretching it a bit, though. We went for the cheapest room in the house, at 400 rupees, which was clean and well kept, with small windows giving a view of the lake. The bed was hard and lumpy, as were the pillows. The bathroom, too, was rudimentary with a cold shower, although it too was clean. If you want better rooms, they are available here, but bargain hard as we think the price asked for most does not reflect the quality. Management are a friendly family, and there's a good restaurant on the rooftop doing excellent dinners, although average breakfasts.
View: glimpse of lake palace
Cost: 450 rupees
Recommended? Yes, but try bargaining the price down for the more expensive rooms
Contact details: +91 294 2521636 Email: lakeghatanis@hotmail.com
Ajmer, 15 August
Hotel Ajmeru, room 301
Reasonable choice not too far from the train station - although not where the Lonely Planet says it should be on the map! Bad Lonely Planet, and poor us, who arrived at 11pm and traipsed around the neighbourhood in vain trying to find it, eventually having to throw ourselves upon the mercy of a local rickshaw driver to drive us across the road and around the corner 150 metres to the real address. Once there, reception was friendly, the room was ok, usual story with the stained sheets but clean, at least. Shower had hot water to have a bucket shower.
Bathroom: Private
Views:District, from balcony
Cost: 600 rupees
Recommended? Yes.
Contact details: www.hotelajmeru.com
Reasonable choice not too far from the train station - although not where the Lonely Planet says it should be on the map! Bad Lonely Planet, and poor us, who arrived at 11pm and traipsed around the neighbourhood in vain trying to find it, eventually having to throw ourselves upon the mercy of a local rickshaw driver to drive us across the road and around the corner 150 metres to the real address. Once there, reception was friendly, the room was ok, usual story with the stained sheets but clean, at least. Shower had hot water to have a bucket shower.
Bathroom: Private
Views:District, from balcony
Cost: 600 rupees
Recommended? Yes.
Contact details: www.hotelajmeru.com
Delhi, 14 August
Vivek Hotel, room 107
After the sewerage saga of the previous day, we had a mind to move to another hotel. But given the late hour upon which we awoke, we decided in the end to just upgrade our room. And it was all ok. Air-conditioning, very clean sheets, a telly (with The Castle on one of the cable channels - what a treat), and, wait for it... toilet paper and soap provided! We did feel spoilt.
Bathroom: private, and quite nice
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 800 rupees
Recommended? Yes, easily twice as clean as the basic room and vastly more comfortable.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
After the sewerage saga of the previous day, we had a mind to move to another hotel. But given the late hour upon which we awoke, we decided in the end to just upgrade our room. And it was all ok. Air-conditioning, very clean sheets, a telly (with The Castle on one of the cable channels - what a treat), and, wait for it... toilet paper and soap provided! We did feel spoilt.
Bathroom: private, and quite nice
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 800 rupees
Recommended? Yes, easily twice as clean as the basic room and vastly more comfortable.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
Delhi, 13 August
Vivek hotel, room 301
We arrived late to find only one room left, despite the fact that the monsoon rains had left the lobby swimming in raw sewerage from the overflowing drains. The late hour left us no choice but to stay there.
Sheets were damp and there was a cockroach living under the mattress. And it was a cold water shower. Grim all-round.
Bathroom: Private, but dirty and rank
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 400 rupees
Recommended? Horrible. Don't be a cheapskate, it's not worth it - just spend the extra for a decent room.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
We arrived late to find only one room left, despite the fact that the monsoon rains had left the lobby swimming in raw sewerage from the overflowing drains. The late hour left us no choice but to stay there.
Sheets were damp and there was a cockroach living under the mattress. And it was a cold water shower. Grim all-round.
Bathroom: Private, but dirty and rank
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 400 rupees
Recommended? Horrible. Don't be a cheapskate, it's not worth it - just spend the extra for a decent room.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
Monday, August 25, 2008
Haridwar, 10-12 August
Mohyal Ashram, room B101
What a sanctuary. As ashrams go, this is a very relaxed one, welcoming to foreign guests and spotlessly clean. Our room with fan was spacious and light, with the best-equipped bathroom we've had in India yet. There was a hot water shower and a Western-style loo. All food is included in the nightly cost; what's more, it's generally delicious. Unfortunately it hasn't photographed very well. Yoga instruction is available at 150 rupees per person for an hour and a half, and there's a library for guests' use with all sorts of books, including, of course, spirituality and self-improvement.
3 days is not quite long enough for a stay here- we recommend 4 at least.
Bathroom: private and very, very clean
View: Garden
Cost: 600 rupees (double) inc all meals
Contact details: email mohans_india@yahoo.com Address: Rishikesh Rd. Ph 261336
What a sanctuary. As ashrams go, this is a very relaxed one, welcoming to foreign guests and spotlessly clean. Our room with fan was spacious and light, with the best-equipped bathroom we've had in India yet. There was a hot water shower and a Western-style loo. All food is included in the nightly cost; what's more, it's generally delicious. Unfortunately it hasn't photographed very well. Yoga instruction is available at 150 rupees per person for an hour and a half, and there's a library for guests' use with all sorts of books, including, of course, spirituality and self-improvement.
3 days is not quite long enough for a stay here- we recommend 4 at least.
Bathroom: private and very, very clean
View: Garden
Cost: 600 rupees (double) inc all meals
Contact details: email mohans_india@yahoo.com Address: Rishikesh Rd. Ph 261336
Haridwar, August 9
Mansarover International, room 108
After half an hour of asking around at several small Lonely Planet-recommended hotels nearby, we spurned their overpriced, undercleaned offerings and plumped for this large hotel with the grand moniker, not mentioned in the guide book. Although it's seen better days, prices are reasonable, it has a good location near the Mansa Devi cable car and it was the cleanest hotel we inspected in town.
Our room was spacious, with clean bathroom (hot water) and a balcony, which seemed to have been adopted by a family of pigeons. Management are helpful.
Bathroom: private
View: Lush green hillside and tops of old buildings
Cost: 600 rupees (9 euros)
Recommended: Definitely
Contact: Upper road, haridwar email: hotelmansaroverintl@rediffmail.com Ph:01334 226501
After half an hour of asking around at several small Lonely Planet-recommended hotels nearby, we spurned their overpriced, undercleaned offerings and plumped for this large hotel with the grand moniker, not mentioned in the guide book. Although it's seen better days, prices are reasonable, it has a good location near the Mansa Devi cable car and it was the cleanest hotel we inspected in town.Our room was spacious, with clean bathroom (hot water) and a balcony, which seemed to have been adopted by a family of pigeons. Management are helpful.
Bathroom: private
View: Lush green hillside and tops of old buildings
Cost: 600 rupees (9 euros)
Recommended: Definitely
Contact: Upper road, haridwar email: hotelmansaroverintl@rediffmail.com Ph:01334 226501
Lucknow to Haridwar, August 8
Overnight train, 2 A/C class
Surprisingly, not too bad. We shared a carriage with a couple of soldiers heading up to Haridwar for training, so this train trip we weren't as concerned about security, at least. The train was much the same a our previous experience, basic beds, basic bedding, but this time we got some sleep. All in all, not too bad, but then, you can't always guarantee you'll get such good company.
Surprisingly, not too bad. We shared a carriage with a couple of soldiers heading up to Haridwar for training, so this train trip we weren't as concerned about security, at least. The train was much the same a our previous experience, basic beds, basic bedding, but this time we got some sleep. All in all, not too bad, but then, you can't always guarantee you'll get such good company.
Lucknow, August 7
Hotel Mayur, room 35
If you're not on a strict budget, read no more. If you are on a budget and are arriving late/departing early from the train station, this will do. But only for 1 night. The mattress was stained (noticed this as we asked for the sheets to be changed), walls were peeling and there were strange holes in the wall through to a ventilation duct. The whole room smelt vaguely of piss, while the hotel stair landings doubled as a rubbish dump, hosting such various items as old mattresses, beer bottles and broken furniture. Management were reasonably helpful and offer a 24 hour checkout. Our room had satellite TV though, a welcome addition after weeks of Indian only fare. We watched an old episode of Seinfeld at 1 in the morning. It was great.
Bathroom: Private (apart from the hole in the wall)
View: Street
Recommended? Exactly how desperate are you?
Contact details: Address: Subharsh Marg
If you're not on a strict budget, read no more. If you are on a budget and are arriving late/departing early from the train station, this will do. But only for 1 night. The mattress was stained (noticed this as we asked for the sheets to be changed), walls were peeling and there were strange holes in the wall through to a ventilation duct. The whole room smelt vaguely of piss, while the hotel stair landings doubled as a rubbish dump, hosting such various items as old mattresses, beer bottles and broken furniture. Management were reasonably helpful and offer a 24 hour checkout. Our room had satellite TV though, a welcome addition after weeks of Indian only fare. We watched an old episode of Seinfeld at 1 in the morning. It was great.Bathroom: Private (apart from the hole in the wall)
View: Street
Recommended? Exactly how desperate are you?
Contact details: Address: Subharsh Marg
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