RN Haveli, roof room
Run by Mama and a couple of helpers, this haveli is just like staying in a family home. Actually, it is a family home. And a very basic one. Mama has a huge personality and will tell you to treat her like your Indian mother, and her house as your home. It's all rather sweet, and she is a lovely lady, but she doesn't get upstairs much, we think, and our room was a bit of a hovel. The bathroom was badly connected and emitted the smell of raw sewerage whenever the toilet was flushed (hmmm, to not flush the toilet and watch it all pile up, or flush it and dry retch...it's a tough one). The bed was hard, the windows had no glass, so it was a mozzie free-for-all, and the roof is made of corrugated iron which the local monkeys like jumping on from about 6am. Oh, and there was a bat flying round the room the second night when we went to bed. This is REAL.
Bathroom: private, but horrific
View: Bundi fort
Cost: A tiny 250 rupees
Recommended: We won't be doing this again. But go for the cleaner downstairs room if you want a basic and honest homestay experience.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Udaipur, August 17-20
Jaiwana Haveli (aka Caravan Serai), room 30
A step up into the mid-range category and boy did we notice the difference. Rooms here are spotless with crisp white sheets, comfy beds and soft pillows. The bathroom was new, although amusingly, the toilet has been installed somewhat high, so when seated, you feel like you are a child again, with your legs dangling above the ground. Our room had a view of the Lake Palace out of one tinted window (we opened the window for a better gawk and the breeze, but look out for the mozzies). Apparently management (who, by the way, managed to strike the perfect balance between professional and friendly), were shortly to install LCD TVs in some of the rooms, which will make the Jaiwana even more of a bargain for the price.
Some rooms have views
Bathroom: private, spotless, lovely
Cost: 800 rupees. A steal
Recommended: Oh yes. Nowhere else we stayed came close to this for value and style.
Contact details: www.jaiwanahaveli.com
A step up into the mid-range category and boy did we notice the difference. Rooms here are spotless with crisp white sheets, comfy beds and soft pillows. The bathroom was new, although amusingly, the toilet has been installed somewhat high, so when seated, you feel like you are a child again, with your legs dangling above the ground. Our room had a view of the Lake Palace out of one tinted window (we opened the window for a better gawk and the breeze, but look out for the mozzies). Apparently management (who, by the way, managed to strike the perfect balance between professional and friendly), were shortly to install LCD TVs in some of the rooms, which will make the Jaiwana even more of a bargain for the price.
Some rooms have views
Bathroom: private, spotless, lovely
Cost: 800 rupees. A steal
Recommended: Oh yes. Nowhere else we stayed came close to this for value and style.
Contact details: www.jaiwanahaveli.com
Udaipur, 16 August
Lake Ghat Guest House (aka Lake Ghat Palace) room 8
A range of rooms are available at this haveli-style guesthouse. Its name change from 'guest house' to palace is stretching it a bit, though. We went for the cheapest room in the house, at 400 rupees, which was clean and well kept, with small windows giving a view of the lake. The bed was hard and lumpy, as were the pillows. The bathroom, too, was rudimentary with a cold shower, although it too was clean. If you want better rooms, they are available here, but bargain hard as we think the price asked for most does not reflect the quality. Management are a friendly family, and there's a good restaurant on the rooftop doing excellent dinners, although average breakfasts.
View: glimpse of lake palace
Cost: 450 rupees
Recommended? Yes, but try bargaining the price down for the more expensive rooms
Contact details: +91 294 2521636 Email: lakeghatanis@hotmail.com
A range of rooms are available at this haveli-style guesthouse. Its name change from 'guest house' to palace is stretching it a bit, though. We went for the cheapest room in the house, at 400 rupees, which was clean and well kept, with small windows giving a view of the lake. The bed was hard and lumpy, as were the pillows. The bathroom, too, was rudimentary with a cold shower, although it too was clean. If you want better rooms, they are available here, but bargain hard as we think the price asked for most does not reflect the quality. Management are a friendly family, and there's a good restaurant on the rooftop doing excellent dinners, although average breakfasts.
View: glimpse of lake palace
Cost: 450 rupees
Recommended? Yes, but try bargaining the price down for the more expensive rooms
Contact details: +91 294 2521636 Email: lakeghatanis@hotmail.com
Ajmer, 15 August
Hotel Ajmeru, room 301
Reasonable choice not too far from the train station - although not where the Lonely Planet says it should be on the map! Bad Lonely Planet, and poor us, who arrived at 11pm and traipsed around the neighbourhood in vain trying to find it, eventually having to throw ourselves upon the mercy of a local rickshaw driver to drive us across the road and around the corner 150 metres to the real address. Once there, reception was friendly, the room was ok, usual story with the stained sheets but clean, at least. Shower had hot water to have a bucket shower.
Bathroom: Private
Views:District, from balcony
Cost: 600 rupees
Recommended? Yes.
Contact details: www.hotelajmeru.com
Reasonable choice not too far from the train station - although not where the Lonely Planet says it should be on the map! Bad Lonely Planet, and poor us, who arrived at 11pm and traipsed around the neighbourhood in vain trying to find it, eventually having to throw ourselves upon the mercy of a local rickshaw driver to drive us across the road and around the corner 150 metres to the real address. Once there, reception was friendly, the room was ok, usual story with the stained sheets but clean, at least. Shower had hot water to have a bucket shower.
Bathroom: Private
Views:District, from balcony
Cost: 600 rupees
Recommended? Yes.
Contact details: www.hotelajmeru.com
Delhi, 14 August
Vivek Hotel, room 107
After the sewerage saga of the previous day, we had a mind to move to another hotel. But given the late hour upon which we awoke, we decided in the end to just upgrade our room. And it was all ok. Air-conditioning, very clean sheets, a telly (with The Castle on one of the cable channels - what a treat), and, wait for it... toilet paper and soap provided! We did feel spoilt.
Bathroom: private, and quite nice
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 800 rupees
Recommended? Yes, easily twice as clean as the basic room and vastly more comfortable.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
After the sewerage saga of the previous day, we had a mind to move to another hotel. But given the late hour upon which we awoke, we decided in the end to just upgrade our room. And it was all ok. Air-conditioning, very clean sheets, a telly (with The Castle on one of the cable channels - what a treat), and, wait for it... toilet paper and soap provided! We did feel spoilt.
Bathroom: private, and quite nice
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 800 rupees
Recommended? Yes, easily twice as clean as the basic room and vastly more comfortable.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
Delhi, 13 August
Vivek hotel, room 301
We arrived late to find only one room left, despite the fact that the monsoon rains had left the lobby swimming in raw sewerage from the overflowing drains. The late hour left us no choice but to stay there.
Sheets were damp and there was a cockroach living under the mattress. And it was a cold water shower. Grim all-round.
Bathroom: Private, but dirty and rank
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 400 rupees
Recommended? Horrible. Don't be a cheapskate, it's not worth it - just spend the extra for a decent room.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
We arrived late to find only one room left, despite the fact that the monsoon rains had left the lobby swimming in raw sewerage from the overflowing drains. The late hour left us no choice but to stay there.
Sheets were damp and there was a cockroach living under the mattress. And it was a cold water shower. Grim all-round.
Bathroom: Private, but dirty and rank
View: None, frosted window onto corridor
Cost: 400 rupees
Recommended? Horrible. Don't be a cheapskate, it's not worth it - just spend the extra for a decent room.
Contact details: 1534 Main Bazaar, Paharganj. Tel 41511435. Email: reservation@vivekhotel.com www.vivekhotel.com
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